Remnant skirt
Do you have several nice fabrics that you would like to use for a garment, but you don't have enough of them left? How about combining them into a skirt? Here's the instructions for the patchwork skirt I made from remnants!
The skirt is made with a Zero Waste pattern as a starting point, constructed from three rectangles – the waistband and two tiers of skirt. The two tiers of the skirt are composed of several squares of different fabrics that are patched together.
What you need
Waistband 140 x 10 cm
Upper tier 140 x 25 cm or 2 pieces 75 x 25 cm if your adding inseam pockets
Lower tier 240 x 60 cm
25 mm Elastic band – I used 70 cm
Optional – 4 pieces of approximately 30 x 20 cm for pockets
I let the amount of fabric I had determine the width of the tiers in my skirt, so that I could make the most use out of the fabric I had. But you can easily adjust both the height and width of the tiers to your taste and to adapt to your own size. Calculate between 1.5 and 2 times more width on the bottom tier to get enough gathering.
Instructions
1
The first thing you need to do is pick out fabric remnants that match!
Choose fabrics that are roughly the same weight and not too thick. I used Japanese crepe in two colors, a silk nep, linen and linen blend. I chose to stick to dark colors for this skirt, but to mix and match green, black and blue together – these are some of the colors I wear the most, so I thought the skirt would go with several different tops that I already have.
2
Now you need to choose a layout for your skirt!
There are two ways to go about this – Sew all the pieces together to make one large piece of fabric and then cut out your pattern pieces. This is best if you have a lot of small pieces. If you have several large pieces, pick out pieces of fabric for each pattern piece and sew them together. I did the latter and based my layout choice on the size of the fabric pieces to make the most of the fabric I had.
When sewing fabric pieces together, it is a good idea to start by sewing one direction first, pressing the pieces apart and then sewing the next direction. For example, if you have two small pieces that need to be sewn together with a larger piece, start with the smallest ones first.
I sewed the pieces together with an overlocker, but you can also sew with a zigzag stitch along the edges of the pieces first and then sew them together with a straight stitch. This will avoid loose threads on the inside and the pieces unraveling.
3
Optional – Slit pockets
Once you have your pattern pieces ready you can start sewing the pockets. You can use an inseam pocket pattern you have lying around or simply draw one out from the palm of your hand. I used the pocket pattern from the Trail Trouser.
Sew with an overlock or zigzag along the pocket curve first. Place the pockets right sides together over the skirt pieces, edge to edge with the top. Secure with a straight stitch and finish with an overlock or zigzag. Press the pockets outwards, stay stitching is optional.
Place the skirt pieces on top of each other right sides together so that the pockets align. Sew a seam along the entire pocket curve all the way onto the skirt, turn and continue the seam along the side seam of the skirt. Repeat for both sides.
Press the pockets onto what will become the front of your skirt, pin or sew them along the top of the skirt. The skirt is then ready for the waistband.
4
Fold the waistband in half vertically, right sides together, so that the short sides meet and the waistband form a cylinder, sew the short sides together with a straight stitch. Overlock or zigzag stitch around one of the raw edges.
Place the waistband right sides together over the skirt so that the edge of the waistband that you haven't overlocked meets the top of the skirt. Sew a straight stitch all the way around. Press the seam allowance upwards. Then press the waistband over itself, wrong sides together. Sew a straight stitch 1 cm in from the folded edge. Place the elastic between the two layers of the waistband right up against the seam you just made. Now you will sew a seam below the elastic that goes through the skirt and one layer of waistband. Sew from the right side in the gutter between the waistband and the skirt, making sure not to sew through the elastic.
5
Now you can make the gathers on the lower skirt tier.
Start by folding the skirt over itself so that the short sides meet. Sew the short sides together so that the skirt forms a cylinder. Sew two rows of basting stitches 1 cm apart, 1 cm down from the top of the skirt section.
Hold on to the two ends of the upper thread and pull the fabric to gather it. Distribute the gathers evenly around the entire skirt so that the circumference of the skirt is the same as the upper tier.
Place the skirt right sides together on top of the top tier so that the gathered edge meets the bottom of the top tier of the skirt. Sew a straight seam all the way around the skirt circumference and finish with an overlock or zigzag stitch.
6
Now all that remains is the planning!
Feel free to try the skirt on first and adjust the height of the cast-on to the desired length of the skirt. I overlocked along the entire circumference and folded a single 3 cm fold for the cast-on which I secured with a straight stitch. You can also fold a double fold and secure with an edge stitch.
Tip!
If you opt for pockets, you have to choose a back and front of your skirt. If you skip pockets, you can turn the skirt around and change the look as you like!
