Remnant skirt

Posted on 17. December 202418. December 2024 by solveig

Remnant skirt

Do you have several nice fabrics that you would like to use for a garment, but you don't have enough of them left? How about combining them into a skirt? Here's the instructions for the patchwork skirt I made from remnants!

The skirt is made with a Zero Waste pattern as a starting point, constructed from three rectangles – the waistband and two tiers of skirt. The two tiers of the skirt are composed of several squares of different fabrics that are patched together.

What you need

Waistband 140 x 10 cm
Upper tier 140 x 25 cm or 2 pieces 75 x 25 cm if your adding inseam pockets
Lower tier 240 x 60 cm

25 mm Elastic band – I used 70 cm

Optional – 4 pieces of approximately 30 x 20 cm for pockets

I let the amount of fabric I had determine the width of the tiers in my skirt, so that I could make the most use out of the fabric I had. But you can easily adjust both the height and width of the tiers to your taste and to adapt to your own size. Calculate between 1.5 and 2 times more width on the bottom tier to get enough gathering.

Instructions

1

The first thing you need to do is pick out fabric remnants that match!

Choose fabrics that are roughly the same weight and not too thick. I used Japanese crepe in two colors, a silk nep, linen and linen blend. I chose to stick to dark colors for this skirt, but to mix and match green, black and blue together – these are some of the colors I wear the most, so I thought the skirt would go with several different tops that I already have.

2

Now you need to choose a layout for your skirt!

There are two ways to go about this – Sew all the pieces together to make one large piece of fabric and then cut out your pattern pieces. This is best if you have a lot of small pieces. If you have several large pieces, pick out pieces of fabric for each pattern piece and sew them together. I did the latter and based my layout choice on the size of the fabric pieces to make the most of the fabric I had.

When sewing fabric pieces together, it is a good idea to start by sewing one direction first, pressing the pieces apart and then sewing the next direction. For example, if you have two small pieces that need to be sewn together with a larger piece, start with the smallest ones first.

I sewed the pieces together with an overlocker, but you can also sew with a zigzag stitch along the edges of the pieces first and then sew them together with a straight stitch. This will avoid loose threads on the inside and the pieces unraveling.

3

Optional – Slit pockets

Once you have your pattern pieces ready you can start sewing the pockets. You can use an inseam pocket pattern you have lying around or simply draw one out from the palm of your hand. I used the pocket pattern from the Trail Trouser.

Sew with an overlock or zigzag along the pocket curve first. Place the pockets right sides together over the skirt pieces, edge to edge with the top. Secure with a straight stitch and finish with an overlock or zigzag. Press the pockets outwards, stay stitching is optional.

Place the skirt pieces on top of each other right sides together so that the pockets align. Sew a seam along the entire pocket curve all the way onto the skirt, turn and continue the seam along the side seam of the skirt. Repeat for both sides.

Press the pockets onto what will become the front of your skirt, pin or sew them along the top of the skirt. The skirt is then ready for the waistband.

4

Fold the waistband in half vertically, right sides together, so that the short sides meet and the waistband form a cylinder, sew the short sides together with a straight stitch. Overlock or zigzag stitch around one of the raw edges.

Place the waistband right sides together over the skirt so that the edge of the waistband that you haven't overlocked meets the top of the skirt. Sew a straight stitch all the way around. Press the seam allowance upwards. Then press the waistband over itself, wrong sides together. Sew a straight stitch 1 cm in from the folded edge. Place the elastic between the two layers of the waistband right up against the seam you just made. Now you will sew a seam below the elastic that goes through the skirt and one layer of waistband. Sew from the right side in the gutter between the waistband and the skirt, making sure not to sew through the elastic.

5

Now you can make the gathers on the lower skirt tier.

Start by folding the skirt over itself so that the short sides meet. Sew the short sides together so that the skirt forms a cylinder. Sew two rows of basting stitches 1 cm apart, 1 cm down from the top of the skirt section.

Hold on to the two ends of the upper thread and pull the fabric to gather it. Distribute the gathers evenly around the entire skirt so that the circumference of the skirt is the same as the upper tier.

Place the skirt right sides together on top of the top tier so that the gathered edge meets the bottom of the top tier of the skirt. Sew a straight seam all the way around the skirt circumference and finish with an overlock or zigzag stitch.

6

Now all that remains is the planning!

Feel free to try the skirt on first and adjust the height of the cast-on to the desired length of the skirt. I overlocked along the entire circumference and folded a single 3 cm fold for the cast-on which I secured with a straight stitch. You can also fold a double fold and secure with an edge stitch.

Tip!

If you opt for pockets, you have to choose a back and front of your skirt. If you skip pockets, you can turn the skirt around and change the look as you like!

We hope you would like to sew the skirt and tag @indigoindigo.no If you share it on Instagram – feel free to use the tag #IIRemnantSkirt!

Zero Waste Skirt

Posted on 27. August 202322. September 2023 by solveig

Zero Waste Skirt

Super simple skirt that you sew in no time, but which still gives a lot of expression in terms of style! The skirt is sporty and versatile, very easy to make and requires little material.

The design is inspired by technical hiking clothing with a nod to the 90s. It can be styled with everything from a simple, sporty singlet to an oversized men's shirt, and goes just as well with sneakers as with strappy sandals.

My inspiration (From top left: Aoi Project, @jessealexandra, Snow Peak, @paigeroguski)

What you need

150 x 100 cm fabric – Light weight fabric such as poplin is perfect!

90 cm and 150 cm elastic cord

3 cord stoppers

The skirt fits size a XS-XL. I have let the width of the roll of fabric determine the circumference of the skirt, but you can easily make a wider skirt by joining fabric.

Instructions

1

Fold the fabric in half so that the short sides meet. Sew the short sides together so that you get a cylinder, this seam can be sewn with a French seam.

2

Fold the skirt in half, wrong sides together, so that the top and bottom meet and press the folded edge. Sew a seam 2 cm in from the folded edge so that you get a fold in the middle of the skirt. (Tip: If you make the fold into a channel and place it higher up on the skirt, you can add an elastic cord inside the channel and use the skirt as a strapless dress!)

3

Press a 3 cm hem at the top of the skirt and a 2 cm hem at the bottom of the skirt.

4

Mark the centre front of the skirt at the top, and mark the centre of each side of the skirt at the bottom.

5

Sew a buttonhole on each of the marks you have made in the sides and two buttonholes next to each other at the top of the skirt - this will be the holes which you thread the cords at the end.

6

When the buttonholes have been sewn, you can sew the hem at the bottom and top of the skirt - At the top, two seams are sewn, one that attaches the hem and one 2 cm above that seam, so that you get a channel for the cord and 1 cm of "ruffle edge" at the top.

7

Now you can thread the cords - The shortest cord should be at the top and first be threaded through both holes in the cord stopper, then through the channel and tied. The second string is threaded through both holes of the cord stopper, through half the channel so that you thread cord stopper number two at the next buttonhole, then complete the threading of the channel and finally tie the cord. Distribute the cord knots some distance away from the cord stoppers and hide them inside the channels.

Finito – The skirt is finished! If you want pockets on the skirt, you can add pockets on the outside as I have done. Or you can move the seam that I have placed in the center back to the side, and add a side seam on the opposite side, then the skirt can have pockets on the sides.

Want to make the skirt?

We've put together a sewing kit with everything you need to make an identical skirt to the one shown here. In the kit, you get organic poplin fabric in olive green, organic cotton thread, elastic cord in natural rubber and cord stoppers made from recycled fishing nets from Japan.

We hope you would like to sew the skirt and tag @indigoindigo.no if you share it on Instagram!

Puffer scarf

Posted on 25. January 202318. December 2024 by solveig

Puffer scarf

Puffer scarf, quilted scarf, quilted scarf – this beloved garment has many names, perfect in combination with a down jacket or coat for the extra chilly!

I chose to make the scarf short and wide so that it is used more like a collar. But you can also skip the slit and make the scarf longer and narrower so that it can be used more like a traditional scarf. The recipe that follows is based on my version with a slit.

You need 50 cm of fabric in a minimum width of 112 cm. Use a woven fabric that is not too thick. I used handwoven Khadi in dark checks that you can find here →.

And you'll need 20 x 110 cm of wadding to fill the scarf with. I used needle felt in 100% organic cotton which is 2 cm thick, you can find it here →.

Patterns

Instructions

You need 112 x 50 cm fabric and 110 x 20 cm batting. Cut your piece of fabric down the middle lengthwise so that you get two pieces of 112 x 25 cm

Congratulations on your new puffer scarf!

Feel free to tag us on Instagram if you make one – @IndigoIndigo.no!

DIY Tee

Posted on 19. August 202218. May 2023 by solveig

DIY Tee

T-shirts are a basic garment that most of us use on a daily basis, and for many of us it becomes a consumable item. That is why it is a very nice thing to be able to make yourself as you need new ones - below you will find our procedure for making your own pattern and then sewing your own t-shirt!

Step #1 – Pattern

Find a t-shirt you like the fit of and want to recreate. Fold the t-shirt in half vertically and mark with pins where the center of the garment is. Lay half the t-shirt over a piece of pattern paperor a large sheet of paper (tip: you can also use newspaper, used gift wrap or similar).

Draw around the front of the t-shirt, not including the sleeve. Be careful to follow the seams of the t-shirt, especially around the armhole. If you can't fit the entire length of the t-shirt on your sheet, this is not a big deal, you can adjust the length when cutting.

Place the t-shirt face down on a new piece of paper and repeat the drawing process for the back piece. You now have the entire 'bodice' for your pattern!

Then do the same with the sleeve - make sure the sleeve is folded in half so that the seam that meets the armhole forms one fold. Draw around the entire sleeve, here it may be a good idea to pin the sleeve to your paper and then fold away the t-shirt body as you draw around where the sleeve meets the armhole of the t-shirt.

The pattern part for the neck is a rectangle with a slightly shorter length than the neck opening on the pattern. You can adjust the height of the rectangle based on how high a neck you want. I used a rectangle measuring 40 x 5 cm.

Hopefully your pattern now looks something like this:

Step #2 – Cut

Now you are ready to cut out your pattern pieces! The fabric you choose should have some elasticity (tip: it does not need to have elastane/stretch as long as it is a knitted fabric). A light jersey or interlock works well for a t-shirt, or you can use a thicker rib if you want to create a completely tight-fitting model. I use a lightweight merino fabric that you can find here. You need approximately one meter depending on the size and length you want, and how wide the fabric is.

Since your pattern pieces are halves of the front, back and sleeve, all the pattern parts except the neck must be cut on folded fabric. Make sure you fold and trace your entire pattern before cutting so that you get the most out of the fabric and make sure you have enough fabric. Also make sure that you cut all the pattern pieces in the correct direction on the fabric to get the right fit and stretch - all the pieces should be placed with the folded edge in the thread direction of the fabric.

Step #3 – Sew

Now the t-shirt can be sewn together! I used an overlock machine, but you can also sew with a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine.

Start with the bodice - place right sides together and pin together the shoulder and side seams. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams together and the bodice is ready for the neck and sleeves!

Prepare the neck and sleeves - fold the sleeve in half right side in, sew along the cut edge that is across the folded edge to make a cylinder. Repeat this on both sleeves. Fold the neck rectangle with the right side inwards so that the short sides meet, sew a seam over the short side so that you get a cylinder. The neck should then be folded twice lengthwise, with the wrong side inwards. Press the neck part so that it stays folded evenly.

Sew in the sleeves - place the sleeves in the armholes of the bodice with the right side facing the right side of the bodice. Place the seam on the sleeve so that it meets the seam at the bottom of the armhole of the bodice. Fasten a few pins around so that the sleeve is evenly distributed in the armhole. Sew a seam all the way around and repeat on the other side.

Sew the neckline - place the neck piece in the neck hole opening of the bodice with the right side facing the right side of the bodice. (Tip: if you're not using labels, place the seam on the neck in the middle of the back of the t-shirt so you can easily see what's on the back of the t-shirt when it's finished). Pin the center back, center front and on each shoulder seam so that you can easily distribute the neck evenly around opening. Sew a seam all the way around, make sure you don't stretch the t-shirt itself, only the neck part.

Sew scheme - now you can do the final finishing touches and the t-shirt is finished! There are many types of layout and finish you can choose for a t-shirt, I chose an overlocked raw edge at the bottom and made a folded layout on the sleeves which I sewed with a twin needle on a regular sewing machine. If you have a coverlock, you can use it on both systems. You can also sew a seam around the neckline with a twin needle or coverlock to reinforce the neckline so it doesn't expand.

Finito! - Congratulations with your new t-shirt, and pattern that can be used over and over again. And if there you found something about the fit that wasn't quite right, the pattern can be adjusted and graded endlessly, just make sure you make a backup before you start cutting just in case!

We really want to see your t-shirts - tag us on instagram @indigoindigo.no or use the hashtag #indigodiytee

Some of our suitable fabrics: